Japan's John Gotti

After about the unluckiest day of the last 12 years or so---my 3-day old Canon G90 electronic dictionary blew up; I was stranded 30 minutes from home with no money because UFJ bank & ATMs were closed yet again; and my Canon printer suddenly stopped working---it was refreshing to read an article on the y*k*za. Like the mafia, there is romanticizing about them by some. Others fear them very much.

About 20 years ago, there was a book published by 2 American journalists which was appropriately titled The Y*k*za: Japan's Criminal Underworld. I read the original and the updated version too, but always wondered just how accurate it was. The journalists were based in the US and had access to US law enforcement officials as well as some in Japan, but I wondered how much they could really do working from what appeared to be even more outside than the norm for non-Japanese reporters.

A former reporter for the Yomiuri Shimbun, that sometimes surprising right-wing newspaper---it actually published a decent book on Japan's WW2 responsibilities---has written an article about the y*k*za in the Washington Post. He was the first non-Japanese to work for the Yomiuri.

Most Americans think of Japan as a law-abiding and peaceful place, as well as our staunch ally, but reporting on the underworld gave me a different perspective...

...In Tokyo alone, the police have identified more than 800 yakuza front companies: investment and auditing firms, construction companies and pastry shops. The mobsters even set up their own bank in California, according to underworld sources...

...In the good old days, the yakuza made most of their money from sleaze: prostitution, drugs, protection money and child pornography. Kiddie porn is still part of their base income -- and another area where Japan isn't acting like America's friend...

[On the relatively recent law banning producing and selling child porn, but not possessing it] The ban is so weak that investigating yakuza who peddle child pornography is practically impossible. "The United States has referred hundreds of . . . cases to Japanese law enforcement authorities," a U.S. embassy spokesman recently told me. "Without exception, U.S. officials have been told that the Japanese police cannot open an investigation because possession is legal."

...talk in Japan of criminalizing simple possession, but some political parties (and publishers, who are raking in millions) oppose the idea...

[US law enforcement officials] can't even keep the yakuza themselves out of the country. Why? Because the national police refuse to share intelligence...

I knew that child porn had been made "illegal" several years ago, but I did not realize that Japan did not ban the possession of child porn. I did know that the Japanese police have always been very, very reluctant to share its information with foreign police.

The reporter then goes on to describe what he calls the biggest story of his life: The deal that the FBI made for the "John Gotti of Japan" to be flown to the USA for a liver transplant.

He had to drop that story and resign from the Yomiuri Shimbun due to pressure from some very kind folks with an unusually small number of fingers. The Japanese police themselves were, of course, very helpful.

The author ends the article with a confession of bias:

Of course, I'm a little biased. I don't think it's selfish of me to value the safety of my family more than the personal privacy of crooks. And as a crime reporter, I'm baffled that the Japanese don't share intelligence on the yakuza with the United States.

And I am baffled that the US, and other governments, tolerate that.

Is it safe in Japan to even refer to this article? Well, its only being done here in order for someone in the know to "debunk" it so as to to avoid confusion and misunderstanding. After all, this is not the Japan of temples & shrines, geisha girls, tea ceremonies, sake, and onsen that we all know.

Full article at the Washington Post here.

Yet another less than optimistic view of Japan's future

Again, what exactly is the government doing? Waiting until disaster is imminent before seriously moving to do something as it has done historically?

Robert Feldman, managing director of Morgan Stanley in Japan, says conservatives in the government and bureaucracy are staging a rear-guard action to defend Japan's old, insular way of doing things. "In the end, what the traditionalists prefer is the current system with themselves in power," he said in his Tokyo office. "For those of us who are concerned about Japan's economy, for its place in Asia and its ability to sustain living standards for an aging population, that sort of traditionalist position is incomprehensible." A 20-year veteran of Japan's reform battles, Mr. Feldman says reform goes through a kind of "hog cycle." When hog prices are good, farmers produce more hogs, so prices go down and they produce fewer hogs. In the same way, government hastens reform when the economy worsens, reform revives the economy and the pressure for reform eases, as it has in the past few years.
...The question is not so much whether Japan can change, but whether it can change fast enough... The Globe and Mail.

More bowel trouble for ex-PM Abe

The Women's Active Museum on War and Peace in Tokyo has published a booklet on sex slavery in WW2 detailing how the women were recruited and what happened to them.

During the war, the Imperial army set up "comfort stations" to prevent soldiers from raping local women and from contracting sexually transmitted diseases. The military also tried to boost morale by "assigning" women to the troops.

Thousands of women and girls in Japanese colonies or occupied areas were either recruited by force or coaxed into becoming comfort women, and beaten if they tried to escape from the stations. Military doctors surgically enlarged the vaginas of those victims who were not yet fully matured.

Let's hope ex-PM Abe and his fellow right-wing nutjobs do not get too upset and lose control over this. After all, they claim that there is no evidence (that is acceptable to them) that the Japanese Imperial Army was much more than an innocent bystander. It was all contractors...

Tokyo getting greener

With the world's greatest love of and respect for nature, one wonders how Japan and Tokyo could be any greener than it already is. I personally love being able to take walks through all the virgin forests, natural parks, and wilderness areas here. To see all the wildlife and listen to the sounds of nature---old men with transistor radios blaring etc.

Now Tokyo is going even further:

Tokyo's Big Change: the 10-year plan, which was laid out in 2006, responds to growing environmental concerns worldwide and aims to boost the capital's image as it prepares to bid for the 2016 Summer Olympics.

"Tokyo has always worked on increasing greenery, but we'd like this Olympics bid to be a tail wind," said Motoaki Kobayashi, the metro official in charge of the environmental section's greenery plan. "To host an Olympics, it is essential that the city be environmentally organized."

Some might argue that it would be more accurate to say that Tokyo has always worked on increasing the tonnage of concrete laid, but those folks don't understand either Japan or nature. Nature, you see, is man-made just like bonsai. And the point of increasing man-made nature is to increase biodiversity, such as the 2016 Olympics.

Well, at least there will be a few square meters not covered with concrete. The question is: Will the "Sea Forest" be offset by denuding and concreting over a wooded area elsewhere? I'd wager yes.

Warning! Do NOT read

on a full stomach. A NYT journalist has done a report on Japan in which he seems to have believed everything he was told by representatives of the government. You'll learn how Japan's special love of nature is causing crow problems and how things would just be all gooder if we could return to the past. No, not as far back as when peasants were forced to supply the wonderfully kind samurai class with food, but at least before the crow problem got all out of hand due to Japan becoming a foreign country.

Check the blog Shisaku for the story and a link.

A barf bag might be advised when you read the NYT/IHT article. (Then again, you could die laughing, though if you pay taxes in Japan you probably won't.)

Speaking of Denenchofu and mysterious Japan

A fellow commented on a slightly different version of this photo taken in Denenchofu saying that it showed the juxtaposition of the old and new in Japan.

I had never thought of that. I was thinking of something else entirely. I should have realized the deeper uniquely unique Japaneseness represented by the photo. Everyone has heard that Japan is a fascinating mixture of the old and new. Why, you can find a "new" vending machine right in front of an "old" building. Where else but Japan?

I have always wondered why this is "true." Could it just chaotic zoning laws? A lack of urban planning as even Blinky Ishihara has mentioned? It is actually hard to find much preservation of old things in Japan unless it is a temple or something. Old buildings and houses will be razed without a second thought. Some will protest, but the government, bureaucrats, and construction companies are rarely persuaded by mere citizens.

Anyway, every time I pass that building from now on, I will remember that it represents something uniquely Japanese and not just a bright yellow and white vending machine in front of an old building with bright, blue paint on it near the less well-off part of Denenchofu. This sort of thing does not exist elsewhere.

(The longer I live here and the more people I get to know, the less "different" the average Japanese becomes. Donald Richie, in his book The Japan Journals, stated that some guys from Ohio can be more different than guys from Japan. How perfectly true, to the disappointment of the uniquely unique nihonjinron Japan crowd.)

Denenchofu, the customer-free zone

Denenchofu Tokyo (Ota-ku) is an interesting place. It is quite expensive in nearly every part, but especially so on the hill above the station. Lots of TV stars and sports figures live in the area.

There is a small shopping area---perhaps it could be called a "downtown." The interesting thing about it is that you almost never see a customer in any of the shops. In fact, even if one wants to shop in one, it might be a bit difficult as the hours can be somewhat irregular. Then there are the prices. One woman remarked that the shops there all had old products at double the price. This is only a slight exaggeration.

Some people think that these shops might be operated for tax purposes. Take a loss on your business and write down your overall tax bill. Whatever it is, given the price of real estate in the area, it is hard to believe that most of those shops are not losing tons of money.

There are a few places with customers---the drug store with discounted prices which are still higher than the surrounding areas; Denenchofu McDonalds, where hygiene is a dirty word; over-priced Precce, the only grocery store nearby; the aerobics school for kids; and the English school (not "downtown" but near the station.)

The latter two seem to have a good arrangement here. The kid's aerobics school is said to have a relationship with a TV station. That TV station often uses children in some of its programs. Guess what one of the sources for the children is? It is so popular that the parents are said to have to undergo interviews to put their children in the aerobics class.

The English school is said to have made a sweet deal with the powers in Denenchofu. No other English school will be given permission to open in the area. Sort of a competition-free zone.

Okusawa, which is the next station up the line---or a 10 minute walk away---has many small shops and is bustling compared to Denenchofu. The folks there even appear to want business. It seems that they are not very interested losing money to lower taxes, or to make special deals with English schools.

*8 May 2008: Somewhat properly proofread and corrected.*

Osaka's Senba Kitcho serving leftovers

This has not been in the news much. I saw a story on the news Friday evening (posted below) but not much else.

This company got caught in a food mislabeling scandal late last year. Apparently, the re-serving of food occurred prior to that. This is not some kind of mystery of the Orient puzzle. Everyone whom I have talked to about this thinks it is disgusting. Except, apparently, the government. Were it a restaurant run by non-Japanese or one using imported "untouched" food from a foreign table, would the media and the government be so complacent? Or would there be endless reports on TV and in magazines? Would the government and bureaucrats be lecturing foreign companies and governments and be warning the public about the dangers of foreign food?

The Asahi Shimbun had a brief report in English here.

Mmmm...Used Food Served in Osaka

Just heard on the news that a restaurant in Osaka got caught re-serving food that had been previously served to another customer. Seems they would take such items as "untouched" tempura, refry it and serve it to another. According the the Osaka Health Department, this violated no laws as long as nobody got sick. Great!!! Let's go out to eat in Osaka! What's that? Someone has gnawed half the meat off of your chicken leg? Don't worry about it. If you get sick, the Health Department will maybe have a meeting and debate having the restaurant owner make a very sincere apology if it isn't too much trouble.

Doesn't this make you wanna barf? Would it be alarmist to say that one cannot trust any food anymore? The Japanese media has warned us off of all Chinese food. They have not warned us off Japanese food, but the repeated scandals over the last year (and remember, these are only the ones that come to light) are enough to make one hesitate to eat Japanese food. Well, not really as we'd starve, but it is enough to cause more than a little concern.

Is there a functioning government in Japan? What does it do except build roads and bridges to nowhere and debate trivia? There have been no investigations, no new regulations or laws pertaining to Japanese grown/produced/served food have there? Why not? It can't be because they are too busy trying to resolve the pension scandal as that has dropped off the radar. WTF do those old, bald-headed, gummers actually do for their salary?

I believe the name of the restaurant is *Kicho, supposedly another old and respected establishment. Sachiko Yuki was the one apologizing and a Mr. Yuki (her husband?) was also involved. I will have to confirm that later.

*6 May 2008: It is Senba Kitcho in English.

Assimilation in Tokyo: The Mama Chari

In order to live comfortably in a foreign country one has to adapt. Japan is no different even though non-Japanese can never understand Japan. Still, when in Rome...

I hope to cover some aspects of life in Tokyo that I rarely see discussed anywhere beginning with how to ride a mama-chari like a Tokyoite:

One of the most common means of transportation in Tokyo is the bicycle. Two types are very common: the mama-chari (heavy, slow handling, clunker) and the imitation "mountain bike." We will look at the mama-chari with the understanding that the fake mountain bike can be utilized in nearly the same way.

Let's look at purchasing your mama-chari and setting it up like a true Tokyo-ko:

Purchase. Something to keep in mind is that although these things can be found anywhere, it is always best to get a good brand-name. The fake mountain bikes are available with many famous brand-name decals on them. You can choose from the standard Giant, or such exotic types as Levi or maybe even Frito-Lay. For the mama-charli your choices are fewer, but Tokyu department stores sell their high quality brand and I have seen a genuine Burberry sold in a Burberry shop. Go for one of these babies because you know that a heavy low-grade steel bike with a famous name stuck on it at a higher price has to be good. Be sure and ask the salesperson detailed questions about the bike and cycling in general as you can be sure that they know what they are talking about. After all, why else would they be selling them?

Set-up. The first step after you get your finely crafted, high quality machine home is to set it up properly. If you have ever ridden a bicycle of any type, now is the time to forget everything that you learned.

1. Let's begin with the seat. The very first thing you must remember is that the seat can never be too low. You should at least be able to plant both feet firmly on the ground while sitting on the wide, pillowy saddle. In fact, if your rear could drag the ground while riding, it would be nearly perfect.
When pedaling, your knees should come up to about your chin---be careful and don't knee your nose! From the side, a properly positioned cyclist should look something like a person on a squat toilet.

2. Tires & Wheels. Let's prepare our tires next. You may find that the shop where you bought it has filled the tires with air. This is for shipping purposes only. You will find a valve on the round steel things that the tires are attached to. (Bummer if yours are aluminum. These should be avoided as they can cause stopping when brakes are applied.) Remove the cap and press on the valve. Let most of the air out. Your tires should be at minimum 50% flat when you are riding it. The wheels themselves should be properly dished. This is more accurately referred to as "tacoed." If yours are not, remove them from the bike and loosen some spokes on one side or the other. Then either run over each wheel with your car or jump up and down on them until they assume the approximate shape of a taco shell. These steps will make it easier for you to wobble from left to right.

3. Brakes. The pads should be a well-aged hard rubber. When applied, they should make a loud squealing sound. Make sure, however, that they cannot lock the wheels no matter how hard the brakes are applied. Your feet are your main braking source. Brakes are for irritating and scaring pedestrians so that they will get out of your way.

4. Bike bell. This is a required item. They vary in size, but look something like the bells used in boxing. The difference is that there is a little thumb thingy for you to clang the bell with. This, along with the squealing brakes, helps assure that you as a mama-chari rider get the proper respect from those who interfere with your god-given right to the sidewalk.

5. Lights. Legally required for riding after dark. Don't worry much about these as you don't want to be the only fool using them. Remember, the nail that sticks up gets banged down.

6. Handle bar. You probably won't need to adjust this as long as you can comfortably rest on it while reading your e-mail, playing video games, reading your book or newspaper and those other things you may do to keep your mind occupied while riding. Some folks use baskets on the front to help make them even more comfortable as they can then rest almost the entire arm from elbow to wrist on something. Remember, using these are optional. The cool stud and police officers can show their mama-chari riding skills and all-around manliness by riding with one or no hands in crowded areas. Since you will likely be riding while doing other things with your hands, handlebars are of limited use.

7. Mirrors. Very important. Adjust these so that you can look at and admire yourself as you ride. Can be valuable for women to use for applying make-up while riding. Can also assist in properly picking one's nose. WARNING! Do not improperly adjust these so that you could see someone approaching from behind. This could result in such bad habits as awareness of surroundings and anticipation of danger. These types of mama-chari riding errors will be covered later in part two: Riding your mama-chari.

Off for Golden Week?

If you have an hour or so, you might want to listen to Arubito Debito's speech at the Foreign Correspondent's Club of Japan. He discusses his new book Handbook for newcomers, migrants, and immigrants to Japan, as well as other issues which should be of interest to anyone of any nationality---including Japanese---in Japan. He even mentions ol' Blinky Ishihara, without whom no discussion of discrimination would be complete but he also discusses much more and talks about why immigration is vital for Japan.

Interestingly Amazon Japan search brings no results for the title, or either author. I have e-mailed them to find out why. Amazon US will receive the next if the answer is not believable.

**2:17pm: Amazon sent me a link. Note that it is in Japanese (I had searched in English for an for a book primarily targeted at non-Japanese---how silly of me).**

US energy policy

The McCain-Clinton gas holiday proposal is a perfect example of what energy expert Peter Schwartz of Global Business Network describes as the true American energy policy today: “Maximize demand, minimize supply and buy the rest from the people who hate us the most.” Thomas Friedman column in the NYT.

Well, we can forgive Hillary for her idiocy on this one as she had a buzz from the last few shots of grain alcohol she had while relaxing from her spring grizzly hunting trip with her long-time NRA friends. Plus we have to allow that she is still dealing with personal nightmares from her combat experiences in Bosnia.

John is a Republican so we have to expect that the answer to everything is to cut taxes.

The funny thing is that neither will be president this summer so they won't have to worry about dealing with economic problems. They only need make absurd proposals.

"Snake legs"

At the beginning of the Golden Week holidays, an article on the near irrelevance of the Japanese court system. This is pretty well known, courts have often found that the present government or past governments of WW2 era are in violation of the present constitution, or were guilty of war-related wrong-doings. The government then ignores the rulings.

Japanese courts have extremely limited powers to directly bring about change in the real world. Nobody in Japan seems to get thrown in jail for violating a court order, and when Japan's Supreme Court has repeatedly hinted that something may be unconstitutional — the geographical imbalance in Diet representation, for example — nothing much happens.

And those who criticize the system take big risks:

Judge Kaoru Inoue wrote about cases such as these in his book "Shiho no Shaberisugi" ("Blabbermouth Judiciary"), criticizing Japanese courts' practice of issuing rulings that he says have "dasoku" ("snake legs," or something that's useless). He was subsequently driven out of the judiciary — ostensibly for the reason that his judicial rulings were too short, causing complaints from litigants!

But none of this is really news. Perfect for a holiday. Article here.

(About 20 years ago when Japan still mattered internationally, there was some debate over whether it was or was not a real democracy. Don't know if that was ever settled, but we will have to admit that it passes for one.)

Why do the Japanese Police go after non-Japanese?

'Cause if they mess with Japanese school girls, they will get a can of whup ass opened on them:

A pair of patrolmen were attacked that day — by three teenage girls. It started when one of the officers admonished two of the girls for riding double on a bicycle.

But the females were in no mood for complying. One shoved the cop, prodding him in the chest, screaming, "There's nothing you can do about it!" Then her friend kicked him in the leg. As the other cop collared the girls, a third girl arrived at the scene and spat in his face.

A few months ago a young teenage boy and girl were riding double on their bicycle in front of the police box near my apartment. A law enforcement professional who had been inside sitting on his already chair-shaped buttocks sprang into action! Leaping out of his box he yelled, "Don't ride double!"

The young couple replied "OK" and slowed for a few yards, then returned to normal speed and completely ignoring Dirty Harry continued to wobble down the street riding double. Tokyo's Finest slunk back into his box without a whimper.

I thought this was the usual dereliction of duty until I read this article. Now I understand that he feared for his safety and perhaps had a sudden attack of Abe-itis---bowel trouble.

(Need I say it? Nobody was speaking English---it's my translation into what likely be said in English in this situation. It is not a literal translation.)

10:49pm: I had to correct the title as I forgot to write "police" in it.

A high risk business

in which employees have few rights and nearly no guarantees. The eikaiwa chains are bad, but frankly the corporate-focused companies aren't a heck of a lot better. It all depends on the integrity, trustworthiness, and the loyalty of management. That can all go out the window when the economy and profits head south. Non-Japanese, in particular those who do not understand the few rights that employees have, are especially vulnerable. We have seen that even public/private schools and universities are little better. In my opinion and experience, there are less that half a dozen English language "teaching"/ "corporate training" related companies in the Tokyo area that are trustworthy at all. The rest are half-crooked or filled with the most incompetent management that one can imagine. I cannot think of a single eikaiwa chain that anyone with a choice should consider employment with. Not one, including the big B---unless they have recently changed.

Foreign and Japanese employees hired by Nova Corp.'s successor complained of unreasonable dismissals and pay cuts Saturday as they marked the half-year anniversary of the giant language school's collapse. Japan Times.

The lesson? DO NOT come to Japan to "teach" English as a foreign language unless you consider it a one year out-of-college lark. If you do, and want to remain in Japan, look for a decent job---preferably out of the field entirely or at least with one of the half-dozen or fewer decent companies and generally they require some sort of professional qualifications/experience. That is unless you are satisfied with lifelong under-achievement, glass ceilings, and career suicide.

Problems for Blinky Ishihara?

What could it be? The Chinese? Koreans? All non-Japanese? Women? The African-American men in Guam? Which of Blinky's nemisis are causing trouble?

In 2005, our courageous bigot started a bank because the other Japanese banks were in a mess and reluctant to hand out money to just about any fool who asked as had been the practice during the Bubble. In 2008, our bigoted genius' bank was mired in its own mess due to bad loans. Blinky denied any responsibility saying that it was the fault of the incompetents whom he appointed. He was even able to get the Tokyo Metropolitan ASSembly to approve a taxpayer bailout of his idiocy.

Now Blinky will likely escape any serious personal liability for this as he seems to be as slippery as Slick Willie was, but with only about half the sense.

Japan's Financial Services Agency said it will investigate ShinGinko Tokyo Ltd., the unprofitable lender founded by Tokyo's government in 2005.

The FSA, which announced the probe yesterday on its Web site, didn't provide any details. Bloomberg.

We wish him good luck

Taiwan said Saturday it would provide legal assistance to a Tibetan man with Taiwan citizenship who was arrested while trying to disrupt the Olympic torch relay in Japan earlier Saturday.

"We have contacted Japanese police and will provide necessary legal assistance to Tashi Tsering. When his 48-hour detention incommunicado is lifted, our representative in Japan will visit him," Phoebe Yeh, acting spokeswoman for the Foreign Ministry, said. Bangkok Post.

Perhaps since this is a worldwide political issue and since Japan is not exactly pro-China, he will have a chance. Had he been protesting at Yasukuni and been beaten by rightist thugs, he might have less of a chance of getting out quickly.

He is being detained for "obstructing police" which seems to have a rather flexible meaning in Japan.

Sneaky Foreign investors being stubborn

..."The inevitable conclusion of the government's logic is that any foreigners, who do not say they won't sell their shares for 20 years, and who do not keep quiet, are not welcome to invest"...

...Under the Foreign Exchange and Foreign Trade Law, foreign investors seeking to acquire a 10 percent or more stake in Japanese firms deemed critical to national security, such as utilities and arms makers, must first gain government approval....

....The government declined to clarify the meaning of "national security" and "maintenance of public order," it said, adding that the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry also did not hold enough two-way dialogue. [sic]...

From the Japan Times article: TCI defies Japan's request to drop attempt to expand J-Power stake.

Another mystery (of the Orient) solved

Back in February, David Pilling, who works at the Financial Times in Tokyo doing god knows what, wrote a piece on how mysterious and inscrutable Japan is to him. This is from a man who has lived in Tokyo for 6 years. Perhaps he lives in a bubble for most folks who have lived here that length of time lose the Disneyland view of Japan.

One of the things which confused David to no end was the fact that the Japanese call "green" traffic lights "blue." He did not think it strange that native English speakers call "blue" traffic lights "green," but he is a journalist, a seeker of truth.

Well it turns out that few languages other than English make a clear distinction between green and blue:

The traditional subject of the tug of war over language and perception is color. Because languages divide the spectrum differently, researchers have asked whether language affected how people see color. English, for example, distinguishes blue from green. Most other languages do not make that distinction. (When Language Holds the Answer, by Christine Kenneally. New York Times. Here while it lasts.)

Oh darn. Them thar mysterious and uniquely unique Japanese folks seem a little less mysterious and unique. What does Mr. Pilling seem?

Oh, and have you noticed? Some traffic lights in Japan ARE blue, even by an English speaker's definition. Or perhaps I am turning Japanese.